Undergarment



3 Sheets Sheet l,

I. GOLDBERGER.

(NO Model.)

UNDERGARMENT Patented June 28,189

THE Nonnls PETERS co, vnoaumo, WASHINGTON. o c.v

3 Sheets Sheet 2.

(No Model) I. GOLDBBRGER UNDERGRMENT tented June 28 TN: Nonms PETERS co, vamo-Uma, wAsHmaTcu. D. c.

3 Sheets` Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

I. GOLDBERGER.

UNDERGARMENT.

e June 28,1898' /Laz Paten TH: Noms areas co. PHoTcLLnHc., WASHINGTON. D cv llrriTnn v bTaTrs PaTnNT @Triesm IGNATZ GOLDBERGER, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO.

UNDERGARMENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part offrit-reefs Patent No. 606,203, dated Jua@ 28, ieee.

Application filed April 8, 1897. Serial No. 631,243. (No inodel.) A i To cir/ZZ wiz/0771, it may concern,.-

Bc it known that I, IoNArz GOLDBERGER, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Undergarments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates more particularly to a low-necked sleeveless shirt or vest and combination or union suit for women and children; and its object-'is to improve the gar- 1nent,whereby it will avoid the necessity of having sleeves or any other pieces of cloth attached to the sides of the body portion for the purpose of covering the armpits and under the arms for protection against perspiration, and also to improve the fit at the neck `and shoulders and to render it an easy and comfortably litt-ing gar1nent,especially at the armholes, so that the same may tit and be used for any size of arm regardless of the size of the body portion. c

Another object of my invention is to improve the body portion in such a way that there will have to be no scallops or notches cut out or slits cut into the sides to form armholes, yet the garment is to be of such a construction as to be provided with ar1nl1oles,and the parts that form them will also act as sho ulder-straps and 'as a dress-protector for perspiration, thus doing away with the use of dress-shields; also', by constructing the armholes in the manner that I shall describe it will avoid the necessityof having jointed parts at or under the armpit. of the body' portion, which generally form heavy seams that annoy the wearer. In carrying out this part of my invention I employ a tubular body portion of knitted ribbed fabric, and at the upper end on each side I construct a peculiar shaped armhole, and the parts which form them are also adapted for shoulder-straps and armpitcoverings. The upper portion'of the armholes thus formed projecting in an upward direction and beyond the body portion form the shoulder-straps, the ribs of which run in a horizontal direction or transversely with the ribs of the body portion and the elasticity of which yields in a vertical direction. 4The lower portions of the formed armholes,which parts entend beyondthe shoulder-straps in a lateral direction, provide armpit-coverings and occupy more orless of an upright position,with theribs running longitudinally with reference to the length of the body and the elasticity of which yields in a horizontal direction' with the` body. .The parts which provide the armholes and which are adapted to be usedthe 4same as shoulder-straps and armpit-coverings are continuous parts fromthe top of the body portion and are of a double layer of cloth, which, owing to the construction, have unbroken folded edges on the outer side ends of the bod y'for the purpose of receiving an elasticity in -bothhorizontal and vertical directions. A The innersides of the formed shoulder-straps and upper body portion which l provide the neck and body opening are finished with some device for the purpose of adjustinga tape. o'r ribbonto be used as drawing-stringstofasten the shoulder-straps to the body of thewearer to keep the garment from falling off the shoulders. ,lVhen a garment of this description is slipped over the body of the wearer and the `shoulder-straps areproperly fastened by means of the tape around the neck, the lower portionsformin g the armpit-coverings,` owing to the shape and construction of the armholes "and through the elasticity of the cloth yielding, in both directions, will not fall away from Athe body, but will hug close to the under sides of the arms, covering the armpits,and will yield'with every movement of the arms with the greatest ease and comfort, and thereby act as an absorber of perspiration. y

Another yadvantage arises from my construction ofthe armholes, so that they will lit any size ofV arm and will cause no tightness, binding, or any other inconvenience at or under the armpits to hurt the `wearer; will also save material and labor and will lessen the costv of manufacture over Aother constructed garments that were made heretofore for similar use, and will therefore be a more desirable article in general.

IOO

body, it will render the garment yielding to such an extent that it will not draw at the shoulders and will not pull or tear the buttons off the bod y,which is caused by the strain when stoopiug orbending down. Garments heretofore constructed with drop-naps forthe seat-opening on such suits and pantaloons have the upper portion of seat-opening closure or drop-flap finished with a non-elastic band or with an elastic baud that will only yield in a horizontal direction. A drop-flap with a band unyielding vertically always causes the'garrnent to draw at the shoulders of the wearer and in every such ease will tear or pull the buttons off when stooping down, for the reason that the body portion has the ribs running vertically and therefore being practically inelastic in that direction which by stoopin g necessitates the enlargement of the body portion in a longitudinal direction. My improved drop-flap does away 'with all these defects and will therefore furnish a more desirable garment, especially when used by child ren,to which they are mainly adapted.

In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will proceed ,to describe it with reference to the accompanyingdrawings, in whicl1 Figure I is a view of a piece of cloth or knitted fabric of tubular body folded fiat, showing the front or back cut out at the upper portion, so as to form armholes, shoulderstraps, and armpit-coverings when folded inward to the inside of the body. Fig. II is a view of the upper portion of the body where the out portions are folded over inward to the inside of the body on a horizontal line to form a double layer of cloth for the armhole portions and shoulder-straps. Fig. III isa view of the upper portion of the body, show- 'ing the shoulder-straps raised to their proper position. Fig. IV is a full view of the upper body portion, as shown in Fig. III,with a lace edging and tape adjusted, showing it in its complete condition. Fig. Vis a perspective view of a shoulder portion of the same. Fig. VI is a view showing a inodilication'of the tubular body and the front or back of the upper portion to form a double layer of cloth for the armpit-coverings before they are folded over to the inside of the body and before the separate shoulder-straps are attached to the vertical inner edges. Fig. VII is a view of the front or back of the upper body portion having two shoulder-straps attached to the vertical inner edges on both sides, front, and back body portion before they are folded into the inside of the bodyportion to form armpitcoveringsand shoulder-straps. Fig. VIII is a view of the front or back of the upper body portion folded over to the inside of the body portion on a horizontal line to form. double 'thicknesses for the armpit-coverings and shoulder-straps before the shoulder-straps are raised to their proper position. Fig. IX is a view of the front of the upper body portion having the shoulder-straps raised to their right. position and finished with an edging and tape to form the neck-opening. Fig. X is a View of oneof the shoulder-straps before being folded. Fig. XI is a perspective of a folded shoulder-strap. Fig. XII is a back view of a low-necked sleeveless combination or union suit having a drop-flap seat-opening closure attached and fastened. Fig. XIII is a back view of the same, showing the dropflap unfastened. Fig. XIV is a view of the band of single layer before being folded over. Fig. XV is a view of the band folded and ready for attachment.

For the body portion of the garment'shown in Figs. I to V I employ a piece of knitted cloth 1, preferably made of ribbed fabric and of tubular body of any construction. The piece of tubular cloth is folded flat, and at the end which is used for the upper portion the cloth is cut on both layers from the top of both side edges 2, as shown in Fig. l, from points a in downward diagonal lines 3 to the points b of the inner body portion, au d thence from the /points b in a straight horizontal upper line 4 across the body to the point c at the center of the body portion, thence from the point c in a vertical line 5 to the point d, thence from the point d in straight horizontal lower lines 6 toward the outer sides of the body portion and ending at points e, so as to bring the saine in a parallel line with the upper line 4. The upper side portions '7 thus formed are each of a V shape on each side edge of the body portion. These side portions are folded over to the inside of the body portion at the dotted line S in Fig. I, which brings the horizontal lines 4: and (i together, and the portions embraced by these lines form the shoulder-straps 9. The cut edges from a to b are attached to the inner sides of the body, and the edges from c to d of the rear and front parts forming the shoulder-straps or upper portion of armholes are sewed together or otherwise attached to each other, as shown in Fig. III, and are raised up side- Wise toward theouter side of the body to bring the two shoulder-straps in a more or less upright position and the ribs approximately horizontal or transverse of the ribs of the body portion, thereby bringing the elasticity to yield in a vertical direction. the cloth over to the inside of the body portion at the dotted line 8 I provide an unbroken edge 10 thereat, which, when the shoulderstraps 9 are raised to their proper position,

and owing to the open cut edges from b to c,

and CZ to e on the edges of the neck-opening, the cloth of the shoulder-straps will yield to the full extent or capacity of the ribs, which in use causes the ribs of the outer folded edges to close up tight and form a curved or segmental shaped armhole ll, with the outer upper portion slightly slanting in an outer downward direction. The lower parts of the folded edges7 which extend beyond the shoul'- der-straps to the outer side edges of the body portion on the line lO in a horizontal direc- IOO IIO

By folding tion,form the armpit-coverings,which are con- 'tinuous parts of the shoulder and body portions and occupy a more or less upright position, the ribs of which extend longitudinally and the elasticity of which yields horizontally, as in Fig. III. The inner parts ot' the shoulder-straps and body portion which form the neck and body-opening of the'garment are finished with an edging 12 or some other border for the purpose of passing a strin g or tape 13 through the same. The tape maybe used `for drawing the neck-opening together to keep the garment from falling or slipping off the shoulders, as shown in Fig. IV, and which when adj usted to the body of the wearer will bring the shoulder-straps inward'closer to the neck, thereby drawing the folded side edges of the body or lowerarmhole portions closer to the armpits and under the arms. Owing to the fact that the armhole portions occupy an upright position they will not fall away from the body, but will hug close under the arms, and while the' outer edges of the armholes are of a double layer of cloth and the folded edges being unbroken by and free from any slits the elasticity will yield approximately in opposite directions, which will permit the armholes to yield and contract with every movement of the arms, thereby forming an unlimited space between the shoulders and armpits, which will therefore fit `any sized arm and be made an easy and comfortable garment to wear in general; also, the parts that cover the armpits will act to absorb the perspiration, thereby protecting the dress of the wearer, which will not necessitate the using of dress-shields. The minor details of construction, as shown, may be varied without departing from my'invention.

For the modified construction of my invention I employ two separate shoulder-straps 9, preferably made of knitted ribbed fabric, which are each of a single layer of cloth, as shown in Fig. X, and folded over on the line 5iL to form a double layer, as shown in Fig. VII, and which when attached to the body portion have the folded unbroken edges at the center of the shoulder-straps and the ribs extending horizontally or transversely with the body portion and are attached by their -vertical edges to the inner edges of the body portion. The body portion in this construceach side edge of the body portion, as shown ,in Fig. I, and each is folded inward with the strip portion on the line 8a, and then the side portions are attached by stitching to the inside of the body portion. The inner side edge of the shoulder-straps 9 and the upperinner body portion are finished in the same manner as in my first construction. In this modiiied construction (shown in Figs. VI to XI) I form two seams at each side of the front andV back body portion where the shoulderstraps U join the body, as shown in Fig. VII, and therefore do not form any seam at the center of shoulders. The edges 14C of the shoulder-straps are attached to the vertical edges 15 of the body portion, one at each side front and back, thereby omitting any seam at the center of shoulder-straps. `The dotted line 5n in Fig. X shows the fold for the unslitted edges forming the centerof shoulderstraps. In my first construction I provide only one seam for each shoulder-strap, which is located at the center of shoulder, whereas in this construction I provide two seams for each shoulder-strap, which are located one leach at the front and back body portion where the straps join the body.

The body portion for this garment may be of any desired construction and be knit on any` suitable knitting-machine and the tubular body portion may be with or `without seams.

For the construction of the upper band 2O of the drop-flap 21 I use a piece of cloth, preferably made of knitted ribbed fabric,as shown in Fig. XIV, which is folded over at the line 22 to form a double layer of cloth, as shown at Fig. XV. The piece of double cloththus formed has the ribs running in a horizontal direction and the elasticity of which will yield in a vertical direction only and is attached to the edges of the formed drop-flap, as shown in Figs. XII and XIII, and when attached will have the ribs or wales running crosswise with the ribs of the body portion and dropiiap, thereby producing an elasticity in a longitudinal direction with respect to the garment. The drop-flap in this construction is adapted to fold in a downward direction when opening the seatclosure, and when closed will fold in an upward direction and is attached to the back of body at the waistline by means of buttons 23 and buttonholes 23a or othersuitable detachable connections, as shown in Figs. XII and XIII.

The strip 24 for the upper end of drop-iiap may be of any construction, size, and shape, double or single, as desired. The strip is sewed or otherwise attached to the upper edge of the drop-flap, the ribs of the latter extending in a horizontal direction or crosswise with the ribs of the body portion, as stated.

The minor details of the construction may be varied without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A garment comprising a tubular body portion out at its central upper i portion on longitudinal and transverse lines, said cut portions being turned outwardly and nished to form shoulder portions; substantially as described.

2. A garment constructed from a tubular blank of suitable material, the plies of the upper portion of which are cut on a dividing longitudinal line, and on a transverse line at the inner end of the longitudinal line toward the sides, the cut portions being doubled and the free portions turned outwardly producing IOO IIO

L 3. A garment constructed from a tubular blank of suitable material, the plies of the upper portion of which are cut away on lines i converging inwardly from the sides to a transverse line and also on said transverse line; the plies being'also cut on a dividing longitudinal line and on a transverse line at the inner end of the longitudinal line toward the sides, the upper portions being doubled and the free portions turned outwardly, producing shoulder-straps and armholes between the shoulder-straps and the sides of the garment, and the whole being linished; substantially as described.

4. An undergarment comprising a tubular body portion the central portion of the plies of the upper portion of which are severed on longitudinal and transverse lines and turned outwardly and finished to produce shoulderstraps and armholes between the shoulderstraps and the sides of the garment; substantially as described.

5. A garment comprising a flat tubular body portion formed with diagonal cuts providing side portions, with central horizontal cut-s, and with a vertical cut providing central portions partly separated from the body portion, the side portions with about one-half the width ofthe separated pieces being turned over on a horizontal line inside of the body portion and the side portions stitched thereto to provide double thicknesses at the armpits, and the central pieces having their free ends stitched together, and turned outwardly to provide upwardly-projecting shoulder-straps, neck-opening and armholes, and the whole finished in suitable manner; substantially as described.

G. A garment comprising a seat -flap of ribbed fabric having the lower portion formed of aband in which the ribbing extends lengthwise of the garment, and the upper portion formed of a band lfolded over on a transverse line and in which the ribbing extends transversely of the garment so as to provide a yielding closure; substantially as described.

lGN ATZ GOLDBERGER. Vitnesses:

H. O. J'oNEs, MARGARET A. BUCKLES?. 

